“How do you build a golf simulator enclosure?” The standard formula: ¾-inch EMT conduit for the frame ($60-100), an impact screen ($300-700 from Carl’s Place), and side nets ($100-200). Hang it from ceiling joists or mount on a freestanding base. Tension is the secret — a loose screen ripples and tears. Budget a weekend. It’s plumbing with fabric wrapped around it.
You’ve done the hard part. You bought the launch monitor. You measured the garage. You even had the conversation with your wife.
Now there’s a 9-foot-tall pile of black pipe, screen fabric, and velcro sitting in your driveway. And you’re wondering what the hell you signed up for.
I know this feeling. I’ve read about a hundred guys having the exact same panic attack when the Carl’s Place box arrives. The enclosure is the most intimidating part of the build — which is funny, because it’s also the simplest. It’s just plumbing with fabric wrapped around it.
Here’s exactly how it goes together, what to expect, and how to get that screen tight enough to look like a million bucks.
What You’re Actually Building
Before we get into the weeds, understand what an enclosure actually is.
It’s a frame. That’s it. A rectangle made of ¾-inch EMT conduit (the same metal pipe your electrician uses to run wires through your walls). You attach a screen to the front. You attach side nets to the sides. You hang it from your ceiling or mount it on a base.
The screen catches your ball. The side nets catch your shanks (yes, you will shank into them). The frame holds everything tight.
Everything else — “baffle bar,” “top net,” “curtains” — is optional decoration. The core is three things: frame, screen, side nets.
The Cost Reality
Here’s what you’re looking at for a standard 8’x9’ enclosure build:
| Component | Cost | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Carl’s Place DIY Screen Kit | $250-$400 | Screen material + velcro + grommets |
| Carl’s Place Side Net Kit | $100-$150 | Netting + velcro for sides |
| ¾“ EMT Conduit (10’ sticks) | $3-$5 each | Need about 6-8 sticks |
| Conduit fittings (couplers, connectors) | $15-$20 | Home Depot, pre-cut thread |
| EMT bender (rent) | $8/day | You need maybe 4 bends total |
| Bungee balls / ball bungees | $10-$15 | 12-pack, Amazon |
| Heavy-duty zip ties | $5 | For side net attachment |
| Ceiling mount brackets | $20-$40 | Or build a base frame |
Total: $400-$650 for a full enclosure.
That’s it. That’s the number. The same enclosure from a pre-built company costs $1,200-$2,500. You’re saving $500-$1,500 by spending one afternoon with a pipe bender.
Everyone who’s done it says the same thing: you don’t need to be handy. You need to be patient. Those are different things.
The Frame — It’s Just Plumbing
EMT conduit is the single best thing that’s ever happened to the DIY simulator community. It’s cheap, it’s strong, it’s lightweight, and Home Depot stocks it in 10-foot lengths for the price of a burrito.
What You Need
For a standard 8’ wide x 9’ tall enclosure:
- (4) 10’ sticks of ¾“ EMT conduit (you’ll cut these down)
- (2) 10’ sticks for the depth bars (how far the screen sits from the wall)
- Conduit fittings: you want “set screw” type connectors and couplings
- An EMT bender (rent it for $8 from Home Depot, return it same day)
Step 1: Cut your pipes.
You’re making a box that’s roughly 8 feet wide, 9 feet tall, and 3-4 feet deep. The exact dimensions depend on your space and your screen.
For 8’ wide: cut two horizontals at 96“ each. For 9’ tall: cut two verticals at 108“ each. For depth: cut four at 36-48“ each (depends on your room).
Use a hacksaw or a pipe cutter. A sawzall works too but leaves burrs. File the edges so they’re smooth — you’ll thank me when you’re not slicing your fingers on sharp metal.
Step 2: Bend the corners.
This is the part that looks complicated and isn’t. You’re making 90-degree bends so the pipe turns corners cleanly instead of using a separate elbow fitting.
Mark your pipe at the bend point. Stick it in the bender. Pull the handle until the bubble says 90. That’s it. If you can open a pickle jar, you can bend EMT.
The forum wisdom: over-bend by 2-3 degrees. The pipe springs back slightly. Bend to 92-93 degrees and it’ll relax to 90.
Step 3: Connect the pieces.
Use set-screw connectors. Slide the pipes together. Tighten the screws. Stand back and look at your rectangle.
You now have a frame. It’s really that simple.
Common Mistake #1 — The Floor Mount
Most guys try to make the frame floor-standing. This requires a wider base, more pipe, and usually ends up looking like a scaffolding project.
The smarter move: hang it from the ceiling.
Ceiling-mounted frames use fewer materials, create less visual clutter, and are easier to tension properly. Use heavy-duty eye hooks into ceiling joists, then attach your frame with chains or ratchet straps.
One forum quote that stuck with me: “Building the floor mount was pretty miserable and my fingers bled. Then I took it apart and hung it from the ceiling. Should have done that first.”
Learn from him. Hang it.
The Screen — Tension Is Everything
Your impact screen is the most important piece of your enclosure. It’s what you hit into. It’s what you project onto. It’s what your buddies see when they walk in.
And 90% of first builds get screen tension wrong.
The Carl’s Place Solution
Carl’s Place sells pre-made screen kits. You tell them your dimensions. They send you screen material with velcro sewn onto the edges. You attach the velcro straps to your frame and pull tight.
The key word: tight.
Not “sort of tight.” Not “tight enough.” Tight enough that the screen sounds like a drum when you snap it.
Here’s why: a loose screen ripples. Every ripple shows up as a dark line when the projector is on. It looks like you’re hitting into a wrinkled tablecloth. Your buddies will notice. You’ll notice. You’ll spend the next three weekends trying to fix it.
The technique:
- Attach the top of the screen first. Get it snug but not drum-tight.
- Attach the bottom. Pull down firmly. You want visible tension.
- Attach the sides. Pull outward. You want the screen to be flat like a canvas.
- Walk away. Come back in 10 minutes. Re-tension everything. The velcro will settle and loosen slightly.
- Repeat step 4 twice. This is what separates a good build from a “eh, good enough” build.
Forum quote, another real guy: “I pulled it tight. Then I pulled it tighter. Then I pulled it until I thought it would tear. That was the right amount of tight.”
Gurneys and Grommets
If you’re going full DIY (not using Carl’s kit), buy screen material with reinforced edges and grommets every 6-8 inches. Run bungee balls through the grommets and hook them to your frame.
Why bungee balls instead of rope? Because bungee balls maintain even tension. Rope loosens. Paracord stretches. Bungee balls hold. This is not debatable.
The right product: “ball bungees” or “bungee balls.” 8-inch size. One per grommet. You’ll need 20-30 depending on your screen size. Twelve bucks on Amazon.
The Baffle — The Piece Nobody Warns You About
Behind your impact screen, you need something to stop the ball after it passes through the screen.
Yes, passes through. Even the best impact screens let some energy through. The ball pushes the fabric back. Without a baffle, it hits your back wall, your stored boxes, or — in one memorable forum post — your water heater.
A baffle is just a heavy curtain or tarp hanging 6-12 inches behind the screen. You can use:
- A moving blanket ($20 at Harbor Freight)
- A heavy canvas tarp ($15)
- An old mattress pad (free, probably in your guest room)
Hang it loose so it absorbs impact. The ball hits the screen, pushes into the baffle, drops to the floor. That’s the whole job.
Don’t skip this. I’ve seen guys replace drywall because they thought the screen alone was enough. It’s not.
Side Nets — Your Shank Insurance
You’re going to hit a ball sideways. Maybe not today. Maybe not this week. But it will happen. It happens to everyone.
The first time it happens, your ball will fly at 120 mph into the wall next to your enclosure. If that wall is drywall, you have a repair project. If that wall has a window, you have a bigger problem.
Side nets fix this. They’re just netting that attaches to the sides of your frame and extends back toward the hitting area.
Carl’s Place sells side net kits that match your screen kit. They attach with velcro. Installation time: 15 minutes.
Installation tip: Use zip ties at the bottom corners to keep the net pulled tight and prevent balls from sneaking under. That gap at the bottom — the one you think is too small for a golf ball — is exactly where your shank is going to go.
The Full Build Sequence (Afternoon Edition)
Here’s the order that minimizes frustration:
Hour 1 — Prep
- Measure your space three times
- Buy EMT conduit, fittings, bender, bungee balls, zip ties
- Lay out all your Carl’s Place materials
Hour 2 — Frame
- Cut conduit to length
- Bend 90s at corners
- Assemble frame with set-screw connectors
- Mount ceiling brackets into joists
- Hang frame with chains/straps
Hour 3 — Screen
- Attach velcro to frame
- Hang screen by the top edge
- Tension screen — bottom, then sides
- Wait 10 minutes. Re-tension.
- Check for ripples. Re-tension again.
Hour 4 — Side Nets + Baffle
- Attach side nets with velcro
- Zip tie bottom corners
- Hang baffle behind screen
- Test: hit 10 balls at moderate speed
- Listen for sounds of impending failure. Adjust.
Hour 5 — The Fun Part
- Hit balls. Real ones. Knowing your setup is solid.
- Invite a buddy to break it in with you.
- Drink a beer in your own garage, looking at your own enclosure, wondering why you spent six months worrying about this.
The Mistakes I See Over and Over
I’ve read a lot of forum threads. Hundreds. Some build photos look incredible. Some look like a crime scene. Here’s what separates them:
Mistake 1: Buying the wrong screen size.
Your screen needs to be wider and taller than you think. If you’re swinging a driver, your impact zone is roughly 4 feet wide by 5 feet tall. Your screen should be at least 8 feet wide and 8 feet tall. The extra material catches the high toe shots and the low heel shots. You will hit both.
Mistake 2: Using rope instead of bungee balls.
Rope stretches. Paracord stretches. Zipties don’t stretch but they also don’t tension. Bungee balls are the only correct answer. They absorb impact, maintain tension, and are forgiving when you need to adjust.
Mistake 3: Mounting the frame before checking clearances.
You need room to swing. That means the hitting area needs to be at least 8 feet from the screen (driver) and centered on the screen. Too many guys mount their frame, step back to swing, and realize they’re 6 inches from the side wall.
Measure. Mock it up with string. Then mount.
Mistake 4: Forgetting about projector placement.
Where does the projector go? Above the hitting area? Behind you? Ceiling-mounted? The answer determines your frame depth and your shadow issues. Think about this before you build. A short-throw projector mounted above and behind the hitter is the most common solution. Plan for it.
The “I Don’t Want to DIY” Option
Look, I get it. Not everyone wants to spend an afternoon bending pipe.
If you’d rather buy a pre-built enclosure, here’s your short list:
- Carl’s Place DIY Kit (best value): You still build the frame yourself, but the screen and side nets are cut to size. $400-$600 is the sweet spot.
- Carl’s Place Pre-Made: They’ll sell you a complete enclosure with their own aluminum frame. $1,200-$1,800. No bending. No cutting. Still looks great.
- SportScreen (budget): Pop-up style, portable, not as immersive. $300-$500. Good for apartments or temporary setups.
- Rain or Shine Golf (premium): Custom sizes, commercial-grade fabric. $1,500-$3,000. Overkill for most garages.
The pre-built option costs more. You’re paying for time, not materials. If you have the money and not the patience, buy the pre-built. Nobody’s keeping score.
But if you want the satisfaction of hitting your first ball into a frame you built with your own hands — and saving $500+ — the DIY route is one afternoon of work. That’s a $500/hour return on your Saturday.
The Real Talk
It won’t be perfect on the first try. The screen will wrinkle. One of the side nets will sag. You’ll forget to tape a seam and the first ball you hit will find that exact gap and fly into your water heater.
That’s fine. That’s normal. Every single guy on the forums has this experience. The difference between a good build and a bad build isn’t perfection on attempt one — it’s being willing to adjust on attempt two.
Pull the screen tighter. Add another zip tie. Move the projector six inches. These are 5-minute fixes that make the difference between “pretty good” and “my buddies think I hired someone.”
The enclosure is plumbing with fabric. Breathe. Read the directions twice. Bend the pipe once.
You’ve got this.
Want the full build from start to finish? Read the complete DIY golf simulator build guide →
Not sure what size screen you need? Read our impact screen guide →
Protect your elbows with the right mat: Best hitting mat for golf simulator →
**Looking for the full build from start to finish? Our DIY golf simulator complete build guide walks through every step.
Looking for enclosure recommendations?** Best golf simulator enclosures compared → · SIG10 enclosure review → · Carl’s Place DIY review → · SIG10 vs Carl’s Place comparison → · Enclosure & Component Hub →
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